Conversely, waves are harmful if the interval between the wave crests is short. Sediment that is still in suspension when the following wave crest arrives will be unable to settle and compact and might be more susceptible to erosion by longshore currents and receding tides. The nature of sediments discovered on a beach tends to indicate the power of the waves and wind within the locality. Beaches are the results of wave action by which waves or currents transfer sand or other free sediments of which the beach is made as these particles are held in suspension. Alternatively, sand may be moved by saltation (a bouncing movement of large particles).

beach

El Porto Beach

Beach materials come from erosion of rocks offshore, in addition to from headland erosion and slumping producing deposits of scree. A coral reef offshore is a big source of sand particles. State of Oregon, due to a … Read More