The group initially tried to summit through the south-southeastern spur (Cesen route), switching to the Abruzzi Spur after an damage on the previous route. Via the Cesen/Basque route they reached up to 6300 m, while on the Abruzzi Spur route they reached up to 7400 m. However, Denis Urubko reported that in his solo try he in all probability reached up to 7600 m.
The standard route of ascent, used far more than any other route (seventy five% of all climbers use this route) is the Abruzzi Spur, situated on the Pakistani side, first tried by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi in 1909. This is the southeast ridge of the peak, rising above the Godwin-Austen Glacier.
The staff of fourteen climbers was led by Krzysztof Wielicki, and included 4 members from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Georgia. Marcin Kaczkan, Piotr Morawski and Denis Urubko established camp IV at 7,650 metres … Read More